 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Cruising Log
Nova Scotia
2008
log by Charlie & Cathy Hodge
Nova Scotia
2008
log by Charlie & Cathy Hodge
Part 2 of 2
To return to Part 1 of Nova Scotia Cruise Log, click here
8/11
Off to Rogues Roost today.
We had a gentle sail under blue skies out of Mahone Bay between Little Tancook Island. and Aspotogan Peninsula.
There is a huge institutional like building at the tip of the peninsula. A prison, school, secret site of germ warfare or
the home of Dr. No; all are possibilities. The wind improved resulting in a very nice 6+ knot sail all the way to Roost
Island. Entering Rogues Roost was not hard though the entrance was indeed tight. We anchored with three other
sailboats at the northern end of the small pond. Unbelievably quiet, isolated and beautifully desolate. Eagles, geese
and duck were our companions. This is as far east as we will get and we celebrated with a terrific chicken and boxed
wine dinner.
These will give an idea of the hideaway we found.
8/12
Today starts the return trip. Clouds and sprinkling rain met us early.
Here we are headed back west.
A very good sail of approximately 45 nm was had with a following wind. Dennis taught me the tricks of poling out the
jib to help stabilize the roll of the boat going downwind. We did this several times. Eventually we ended up in
Liverpool and headed for Brooklyn with its small club. On approaching we were disappointed to find a huge paper
mill in the harbor. The disappointment was quickly turned to pleasure on finding the small Marina and club here.
First there is a floating dock, just for guests, that is free. They ask for donations to help keep the place running. The
real joy was meeting the people. They are the best and are generally locals who love boating. When they saw
Surprise coming up the bay, they delayed closing the club. And kept their kitchen open. We had Morocan Haddock
(3) and the world’s best hamburger (1). We were entertained in their cub with a candlelit dinner, music and chatting
with fishermen and the volunteers who keep this club of 120 going. Absolutely charming. I mention that each dinner
was $6.00.
This harbor is one of my favorites for its pure hospitality and the quality of the new friends we made here.
Here is a shot of the mill. Notice their method of emptying the tracker trailers of wood pulp
8/13/08
Today we sailed to Lockeport. This town gained fame as a site where English loyalists settled during the
revolutionary war. Now it is a small fishing village that we found absolutely charming despite the CCA write-up. The
sail today was terrific though a beat into a strong southwester. At 15-18 kts true, we reefed to our advantage with
less heel and more speed. The boat did very well in boisterous seas. Our entry into Lockeport was complex due to
the large number of separate entries and multiple rocky patches, but starting from the MO(A) buoy and following the
reds and blacks we had no problem. The weather was incredibly beautiful with clear blue skies. We entered the
small port of Lockeport and docked at the White Gull floating dock for $.75/foot. We ran into Sweet Dreams again.
They sailed several hours and then motored from Mahone. They had some sort of electrical issue and borrowed our
power line. KISS.
Dinner was at the White Gull with some sort of wine and curried scallops. Pretty good.
The people, including Bill the carpenter, an ex-fisherman were terrific. We met a power boat couple who had gone
up the Hudson, out past PEI and were heading back home to Hampton, VA.
The harbor here is real Nova Scotia, the type I like because of its simplicity and the genuine nature of the inhabitants.
8/14/08
Gale warnings for this afternoon are being broadcast. We plan a quick hop to Shelburne after some eggs Benedict.
We motored to Shelburne in minor fog and a threat of 35 kt winds. So far these have not materialized. It is a wet
north east day now. Time for a nap etc.
The plan now is to leave Shelburne about one hour before high tide which makes it about 8 AM and makes it about
48 hours to the Cape Cod Canal.
8/16
Yesterday was a rest and clean day. The highlight of the day was dinner at Charlotte Lane in Shelburne. Dennis
and Sue treated us which was incredibly generous. The evening before we had Burgers at SHYC. Once again
present were our friends Al and Maggie and Glen and his wife, Harriet (nurse) from Sweet Dreams. The burgers
were cooked by the caretaker of the club, Jerry as seen here.
This was also the Thursday evening races which were held despite cold and rain. These were run from the upper
deck of the club by a group of gentlemen who were clearly having more enjoyment than the sailors.
This was also the occasion of Sue’s and Dennis’s ninth wedding anniversary which was celebrated with champagne
as well as other alcoholic beverages and then to top it off the burgee of Stonington Cruising club was presented to
the SHYC for installation with hundreds of others in the bar room
On the 16th we bid Dennis and Sue farewell as they were off to the CAT in Yarmouth. We left at 7 AM in modest
rain. The trip in general was fairly tough because of the weather. We started with rain and wind on the nose as we
traveled the 5 hours down the coast to Brazil Rock. Then we had a very nice southerly breeze allowing us a close
reach at 7+ knots. That lasted until evening when we encountered guess what. Fog, no wind and thunder and
lightning storms for 4 hours at night. These eventually cleared to a nice moonlit night. However we were greeted
with a 15-20 knot westerly wind that lasted for the next 60 hours. That of course was directly on the nose so that the
trip that we planned to reach the canal in 48 hours in fact took 60 hours. The sailing was good, but the seas 5-8 feet
making motoring near impossible so we tacked the whole way to the canal which is essentially a course of 269
magnetic from Brazil Rock to Race Point on the cape. Here is a nice shot showing what it was like.
We were about 40 miles north of Race Point and thought, “Aha, now we’ll be able to sail to our destination of the
Cape Cod Canal directly”.
Alas, no, no sooner did we head SW than the wind went SW at 20+ knots. Six hours later we dragged into
Provincetown completely beat on Monday night, the 18th. Our total miles covered for this offshore leg equaled 324
nm as opposed to 280 nm direct from Shelburne to Cape Cod Canal.
8/19
Now for the easy part of the trip. We motored to Sandwich for customs clearance only to be greeted by urgent
weather warnings of violent thunder storms ahead of a cold front. We got there just be fore the first squall hit. We
had been in touch with the Customs officer, Officer McQuade. He made it very clear that it was ok to stop at P’town in
the name of safety of tiredness, as long as we did not go ashore. It is the captain’s decision completely. As an aside
our autopilot stopped this morning. “Probably wet inside”, we thought.
Here I am preparing for my interview with Customs by upgrading my headware.
The customs clearance took about one minute. They could not have been nicer or made the process easier. “Here,
here”, to Officer McQuade.
After lunch we left for Cuttyhunk figuring an easy downhill ride. Once at the west end of the canal however, more
warnings; a thunder storm headed for Marion and the canal at 65mph. I didn’t know they could go that fast. Winds at
50+ knots, golf ball sized hail, potentially fatal cloud to ground lightning- and it all came true.
After the storm passed we had a nice north wind sail to Cuttyhunk.
8/20
The north wind persists and we had a romping sail to Stonington. Winds at 20+ from the north, not a cloud in the
sky. A great way to finish the trip. As a bonus, auto Bob made a functional reappearance.
To return to top of page click here
To return to Part 1 of Nova Scotia Cruise Log click here
8/11
Off to Rogues Roost today.
We had a gentle sail under blue skies out of Mahone Bay between Little Tancook Island. and Aspotogan Peninsula.
There is a huge institutional like building at the tip of the peninsula. A prison, school, secret site of germ warfare or
the home of Dr. No; all are possibilities. The wind improved resulting in a very nice 6+ knot sail all the way to Roost
Island. Entering Rogues Roost was not hard though the entrance was indeed tight. We anchored with three other
sailboats at the northern end of the small pond. Unbelievably quiet, isolated and beautifully desolate. Eagles, geese
and duck were our companions. This is as far east as we will get and we celebrated with a terrific chicken and boxed
wine dinner.
These will give an idea of the hideaway we found.
8/12
Today starts the return trip. Clouds and sprinkling rain met us early.
Here we are headed back west.
A very good sail of approximately 45 nm was had with a following wind. Dennis taught me the tricks of poling out the
jib to help stabilize the roll of the boat going downwind. We did this several times. Eventually we ended up in
Liverpool and headed for Brooklyn with its small club. On approaching we were disappointed to find a huge paper
mill in the harbor. The disappointment was quickly turned to pleasure on finding the small Marina and club here.
First there is a floating dock, just for guests, that is free. They ask for donations to help keep the place running. The
real joy was meeting the people. They are the best and are generally locals who love boating. When they saw
Surprise coming up the bay, they delayed closing the club. And kept their kitchen open. We had Morocan Haddock
(3) and the world’s best hamburger (1). We were entertained in their cub with a candlelit dinner, music and chatting
with fishermen and the volunteers who keep this club of 120 going. Absolutely charming. I mention that each dinner
was $6.00.
This harbor is one of my favorites for its pure hospitality and the quality of the new friends we made here.
Here is a shot of the mill. Notice their method of emptying the tracker trailers of wood pulp
8/13/08
Today we sailed to Lockeport. This town gained fame as a site where English loyalists settled during the
revolutionary war. Now it is a small fishing village that we found absolutely charming despite the CCA write-up. The
sail today was terrific though a beat into a strong southwester. At 15-18 kts true, we reefed to our advantage with
less heel and more speed. The boat did very well in boisterous seas. Our entry into Lockeport was complex due to
the large number of separate entries and multiple rocky patches, but starting from the MO(A) buoy and following the
reds and blacks we had no problem. The weather was incredibly beautiful with clear blue skies. We entered the
small port of Lockeport and docked at the White Gull floating dock for $.75/foot. We ran into Sweet Dreams again.
They sailed several hours and then motored from Mahone. They had some sort of electrical issue and borrowed our
power line. KISS.
Dinner was at the White Gull with some sort of wine and curried scallops. Pretty good.
The people, including Bill the carpenter, an ex-fisherman were terrific. We met a power boat couple who had gone
up the Hudson, out past PEI and were heading back home to Hampton, VA.
The harbor here is real Nova Scotia, the type I like because of its simplicity and the genuine nature of the inhabitants.
8/14/08
Gale warnings for this afternoon are being broadcast. We plan a quick hop to Shelburne after some eggs Benedict.
We motored to Shelburne in minor fog and a threat of 35 kt winds. So far these have not materialized. It is a wet
north east day now. Time for a nap etc.
The plan now is to leave Shelburne about one hour before high tide which makes it about 8 AM and makes it about
48 hours to the Cape Cod Canal.
8/16
Yesterday was a rest and clean day. The highlight of the day was dinner at Charlotte Lane in Shelburne. Dennis
and Sue treated us which was incredibly generous. The evening before we had Burgers at SHYC. Once again
present were our friends Al and Maggie and Glen and his wife, Harriet (nurse) from Sweet Dreams. The burgers
were cooked by the caretaker of the club, Jerry as seen here.
This was also the Thursday evening races which were held despite cold and rain. These were run from the upper
deck of the club by a group of gentlemen who were clearly having more enjoyment than the sailors.
This was also the occasion of Sue’s and Dennis’s ninth wedding anniversary which was celebrated with champagne
as well as other alcoholic beverages and then to top it off the burgee of Stonington Cruising club was presented to
the SHYC for installation with hundreds of others in the bar room
On the 16th we bid Dennis and Sue farewell as they were off to the CAT in Yarmouth. We left at 7 AM in modest
rain. The trip in general was fairly tough because of the weather. We started with rain and wind on the nose as we
traveled the 5 hours down the coast to Brazil Rock. Then we had a very nice southerly breeze allowing us a close
reach at 7+ knots. That lasted until evening when we encountered guess what. Fog, no wind and thunder and
lightning storms for 4 hours at night. These eventually cleared to a nice moonlit night. However we were greeted
with a 15-20 knot westerly wind that lasted for the next 60 hours. That of course was directly on the nose so that the
trip that we planned to reach the canal in 48 hours in fact took 60 hours. The sailing was good, but the seas 5-8 feet
making motoring near impossible so we tacked the whole way to the canal which is essentially a course of 269
magnetic from Brazil Rock to Race Point on the cape. Here is a nice shot showing what it was like.
We were about 40 miles north of Race Point and thought, “Aha, now we’ll be able to sail to our destination of the
Cape Cod Canal directly”.
Alas, no, no sooner did we head SW than the wind went SW at 20+ knots. Six hours later we dragged into
Provincetown completely beat on Monday night, the 18th. Our total miles covered for this offshore leg equaled 324
nm as opposed to 280 nm direct from Shelburne to Cape Cod Canal.
8/19
Now for the easy part of the trip. We motored to Sandwich for customs clearance only to be greeted by urgent
weather warnings of violent thunder storms ahead of a cold front. We got there just be fore the first squall hit. We
had been in touch with the Customs officer, Officer McQuade. He made it very clear that it was ok to stop at P’town in
the name of safety of tiredness, as long as we did not go ashore. It is the captain’s decision completely. As an aside
our autopilot stopped this morning. “Probably wet inside”, we thought.
Here I am preparing for my interview with Customs by upgrading my headware.
The customs clearance took about one minute. They could not have been nicer or made the process easier. “Here,
here”, to Officer McQuade.
After lunch we left for Cuttyhunk figuring an easy downhill ride. Once at the west end of the canal however, more
warnings; a thunder storm headed for Marion and the canal at 65mph. I didn’t know they could go that fast. Winds at
50+ knots, golf ball sized hail, potentially fatal cloud to ground lightning- and it all came true.
After the storm passed we had a nice north wind sail to Cuttyhunk.
8/20
The north wind persists and we had a romping sail to Stonington. Winds at 20+ from the north, not a cloud in the
sky. A great way to finish the trip. As a bonus, auto Bob made a functional reappearance.
To return to top of page click here
To return to Part 1 of Nova Scotia Cruise Log click here
| So we finished with a great sail and with Surprise at her best. Would we do this again? Absolutely!! There is so much to see and do in terms of wonderful sailing, geography, scenery and kind, friendly people that several weeks is only scratching the surface. We were blessed to have Sue and Dennis with us with their good humor, knowledge and excellent sailing skills. We hope, next year, to make a longer trip, at least to Bras D’Or lakes if not further. |